When Thomas Sinclair brought his family to Western Australia on the Tartar in 1863 he kept a diary of the voyage. The original is in the Esperance Museum and a copy is also held in the Shetland Museum. It is a fascinating document because it vividly describes what it must have been like travelling on a sailing ship to Australia in the middle of the 19th century.
Although the diary is incomplete we are lucky to have another source of information about the same trip written by Janet Millett,1 the wife of the future Anglican Minister of York, Western Australia, who was a passenger on the same ship. I’ll comment about her observations later, but first, here is the diary.
UPDATE: Since writing this I have gained access to a copy of the original handwritten diary and found that the transcribed version in the Shetland Museum has significant errors. I am transcribing the document myself and will post the corrected version in due course. In the meantime I will leave this version here but please be aware that it is not accurate.
The Diary
Friday, 14th August l863. We left the Hillock2, Dunrossness, Shetland, by the packet “Maria.”3 All in good health. Wind S.S.E. Pleasant run to Lerwick. We were accompanied by James Mainland [his father-in-law] and Margaret Sinclair [his mother] (our parents). We were very busy Friday afternoon and Saturday rigging out for the passage. We went to the Free Church on Sabbath morning , and at Secedar’s Chapel4 in the afternoon.
Monday 17th August. Collected our luggage, packed up same and addressed it for Aberdeen. We were on the pier ready to go aboard the steamboat, when, by Daniel Sinclair, we received a letter from the Commissioner to G. F. to proceed to London, by Granton. We were on board the steamboat at 7 p.m. and underway about two hours later. Wind westerly and heavy swell in the sea owing to strong wind and rain on Saturday and Sunday. I was in the ladies cabin attending my family all the passage to Aberdeen. I had a very fatiguing night with my own family and other passengers, all very seasick.
Tuesday, 18th August. A few hours out from Kirkwall.
Wednesday, 19th August. On the morning of Wednesday 2 a.m. we came to Aberdeen quay. We left for Granton at 9 a.m. – weather pleasant – arrived at Granton 2.30 p.m. I arranged with the Clerk of the Steamship Navigation Company for our passage to London, and transferred to the Leith boat at 3 p.m. We cast off and had fine weather all that day and night.
Thursday, 20th August. 8 or 9 a.m. Wind blowing hard and continued all that day and night. Wind free. We were sailing and steaming.
Friday, 21st August. Got up to Gravesend about 9 a.m. Here we thought it advisable to land, instead of going to London. I paid a boatman 6/- for landing and a porter 2/-. We paid our own expenses while we lay here. We bought our own victuals, and paid 4/- daily for our beds and other small services. Here I wrote five letters to our friends at home, and got one from my sister Janet, in Edinburgh. Here I found what it was to want the association of Christian brethren and friends, especially on the Sabbath.
Monday, 24th August. Here I bought a quantity of outfitting for the voyage, also food and other stores.
Tuesday, 25th August. Went on board the “Tartar” – paid 10/- for getting off. I saw several carpenters at work fitting up the ship for the passengers. This afternoon we were appointed by the officer to berths 7 and 8, directly above each other, and served bedding for beds
Wednesday, 26th August. Lay in port all day. Carpenters preparing the vessel for sea. In the evening all emigrants were mustered on board.
Thursday, 27th August. At sea. Wind light all day, and little progress made in the ship’s course.
Saturday, 29th August. Brought up to anchor, with a steady wind.
Sunday, 30th August. Fine morning. Light wind in favour. Weighed anchor and hoisted all sail. Shortly after this, the pilot from Gravesend left the ship. About 7-8 p.m. the wind commenced to blow unfavourably. Some sail was immediately taken off the ship. About 10 p.m. I had gone to sleep, but between 11 & 12 I was awakened by the pitching of the vessel, and the claps of canvas. Weather came on very quickly. The sailors were called out at 12.30 a.m. A sea struck us on the starboard which gave the vessel such a crash that for the time I thought we had struck a rock. Everything that was loose between deck was tossing and driving about – the tins were making a great noise, and amongst the passengers shrieks and cries in every berth and corner. Many thought their last hour had come. Some were shouting for absent friends, and some swearing the ship had gone. Many who had profaned the Sabbath night were then found praying. I must say that to people who had not experienced anything of the sea before, it was perplexing. My wife Mary asked me if I considered the ship was foundering – I would not say what position we were in. I had reason to bless God that during the time I kept very cool. Shortly after that I found the vessel had received no damage. Several seas were breaking into our waist, but nothing was displaced. About 3 or 4 p.m. I came on deck, and saw that everything was in its place. The vessel was then lying-to, under close-reefed fore and main top-sail. We were in that position, labouring under a heavy sea till the sun was setting, when more sail was then got on the ship. Wind and sea calmed very suddenly
Tuesday, 1st September. On this night, owing to foul wind, the ship was was brought to anchor. When the tide made in the morning, sail was again made, and the vessel brought into Dover. We lay all day there, and shipped a pilot who put us clear of the “sands.” The pilot left us on Thursday 3rd September. All the time wind and weather were very unsteady, plying from N.W. to S.W. blowing so hard as occasionally to bring us under reefed top sails. Many of the passengers very sea-sick. Thursday, 3rd September. Off the coast of Prance.
Friday, 4th September. A cabin passenger on board delivered of a male child. Many emigrants on the Doctor’s list washing on deck from 8 to Saturday, 5th September. Maintop sail flying. The jib tore. Service by the R. C. priest in forenoon and by Minister in afternoon. Wind blew very hard towards sunset. By midnight main top-sail blown clean off, and vessel hove-to.
Monday, 7th September. Vessel lay-to all day. About twenty persons on Doctor’s list. One young person not expected to live.
Tuesday, 8th September. Weather stormy and wind foul. Daughter Jessie fell downstairs, but not badly hurt. Wind N. and we cleared out of the English Channel.
Wednesday, 9th September. Wind N. by E. – fine and steady all day. Ship going 8½ knots.
Friday, 11th September. Wind light. Second general washing day on deck, and access to our chests. Fine weather. Carrying stunsails all day. Past the first half of the Bay of Biscay.
Saturday, 12th September. Brisk wind from S.S.W. Stunsails and royals. Fourth pig died of the 15 we once had on board. Sick girl much better. Wind freshening. Sky clouded. Ship going 8½ knots.
Remarks. Before proceeding further I would remark that from the time we left Gravesend, to the 8th or 9th inst. I never saw the weather so unsettled and stormy at any previous time of my life, during the summer months, and I do feel assured that no open vessel could have lived through the Channel that we have passed through. The sailors say that September is a more favourable month in the English Channel than August Sunday, 13th September. Service by the R. C. Priest. 3 more pigs died Monday, 14th September. Fine steady weather. Wind right aft. Ship’s speed decreased. At 4-5 p.m. some very bright lightening and heavy rain. I observed a strong current directly against us. Family in good health, also Henry Mainland, my wife’s brother, who is also on board.
Tuesday, 15th September. Fine morning. Light wind. About 5 p.m. I saw a whirlwind pass us, about 12 yds apart from our ship. Heavy rain fell. Two whirlwinds were seen to pass the ship in the last watch of I the night, without doing any injury.
Wednesday. 16 September. All our family in good health. Married people and single men’s bedding brought up on deck for airing in forenoon – being the third time. Only two pigs now alive on board.
Thursday, 17th September. Brisk wind all day – going 7-8 knots. Course S by W. Single girls beds on decks for airing. General examination of beds and berths by the Doctor and Captain. Of the married men, a watch appointed for on deck and hatchway. There being fifteen married men, we were divided into three watches. My watch was 4-8 a.m.
Friday, 18th September. Fair wind and dry morning – going 6 knots. Land seen about 9 a.m. by the glass. From the poop I saw the land myself, by naked eye. This proved to be the Island of Madeira. Good health by this time enjoyed by all on board. Weather warm. Wind dropped, and ship only running at 2½ knots. Clear sky and burning sun all day. We expected some of the inhabitants off with fruit or fish, but none came. I suppose we were too far off on the wrong side of the Island.
Saturday, 19th September. These Islands, being the first land we had seen since we left the Channel, I would have liked very much to have seen land people. There were many longing hearts while we were a-passing this Island. Light breeze in favour of the ship.
Sunday, 20th September. Fine morning. Land seen until 6 p.m. All protestants called up on the poop for divine service, after breakfast. Along with the parts of the service, a sermon read by the Minister7 on the death of Lazarus, and the miracle of his resurrection – poorly expounded, I thought. I felt this day a great disappointment for the absence of a good Scottish minister of Calvinist doctrine.
Monday, 21st September. Steady sailing all day. Fine weather. Some fish seen playing around the vessel, but no suitable material on board to fish with.
Tuesday, 22nd September. Today some complaints made by the emigrants for short allowance of stores. Weather very hot.
Wednesday, 23rd September. Saw a ship this afternoon, apparently steering: the same course. My turn for scrubbing and holystoning the between-decks. This duty we were called on to perform every fourth day. My watch on deck 8-10 a.m.
Thursday, 24th September. Captain and Doctor inspected between-decks, berths and bunks. A glass of rum given to each of the scrubbers. Officers well pleased with state of decks.
Friday, 25th September. Family in good health, but Mary slipped down the ladder and sprained her foot. Doctor prescribed bathing in hot salt water, and foot soon recovered.
Saturday, 26th September. Fine breeze. Going 6 knots. A cry was heard “Man overboard.” Many people on deck. The doctor arrived and cleared the deck of all excited females. After conducting my family below, I ascended to the main deck, and ran to the Poop, where I saw a boat being launched. I was not required, as the crew were then selected. The “lost” man was then about ¾ mile from the ship. In their hurry they had forgotten to plug the boat, and what was still worse were without a bucket to bail out the water. However, with the help of a hat, and much exertion, they managed to keep her up, and after 20 minutes or so the boat was again alongside, and the “lost” man safe and sound. The man, John Simpson, was employed brushing the outside of the bulwarks, at the main chains, when a stroke of the sea caused him to slip. After falling in, the ship struck him on the head and shoulders. However, he sang out to the man at the wheel, who immediately threw over a lifebuoy, which he caught. Soon after the man was restored to his station, the ship was filled upon and canvas spread, and this warmed the hearts of every person on board.
Sunday, 27 September. My watch 4-8 a.m. I understand we are into the trade winds. Ship’s speed 170 miles in 24 hours. Called to the poop – divine service. Our family all attended. It was so different from the mode of the Scottish Church that I could not enjoy the service. Today I wearied much for my home, my friends and Christian brethren – most of all for my parents.
Tuesday, 29th September. Ship made 190 miles in 24 hours. The Canadian Islands8 seen by the naked eye from the poop bearing S.E. by E. The last two pigs died.
Wednesday, 30th September. Variable, heavy squalls of wind N.W. by W. My watch was 8-12 p.m. Wind, rain & lightening eased by 12. Top gallant sails and royals set.
Thursday, 1st October. Fine breeze. My turn scrubbing decks 10-12 a.m. At noon we were in 10° of the line. Family all well, and on deck.
Friday, 2nd October. Ship going 7-8 knots, port tack. A ship seen in the morning steering the same course. We passed a brig at noon, and a barque in the afternoon – homeward bound.’ Washing decks 4 to 8.
Saturday, 3rd October. The ship seen previous afternoon, supposed bound for Melbourne, left Gravesend before us. Weather getting very warm – a dry clear sky all day. Passed near to a ship, and spoke another homeward bound from Bombay. It had been 56 days at sea, belonging to Ireland, bound for London. Took letters.
Sunday, 4th October. Wind favourable. Service on the poop. All emigrants mustered for the second time by the Doctor.
Monday, 5th October. My watch 12 to 4 a.m. Weather variable, several vessels seen when morning came up – some going out, others homeward bound. Our family all well. Many passengers in bad health through dysentry. A great cry-out for water to drink. From the hot atmosphere, the saltness of the beef, and scarcity of water, drought was much felt, complaints every day – children thirsty.
Tuesday, 6th October. Our family all well, except for prickly heat. Some vessels seen daily. Weather unsettled.
Wednesday, 7th October. Fine wind. Ship on two tacks today. All beds up on deck. I cut myself a pair of duck trousers.
Saturday, 10th October. Sun be-clouded, and so much better to be clear of the scorching rays.
Sunday, 11th October. Called to Divine Service on the poop. Text – “and their hearts failed them, and they were afraid, saying one to “another, what is this that God has done to us?”
Monday, 12th October. Course more south. Wind stronger. Some quarrelling again in the single women’s apartments. Captain and Doctor brought to quell them.
Tuesday, 13th October. Trouble on board with the single men – refusing to obey certain orders. Cautioned by Captn. and Doctor.
Wednesday, 14th October. Strong winds. Ship going S.W. by W. Many people heady owing to the motion of the ship. We crossed the “line” two days ago.
Thursday, 15th October. Decks inspected. Bespoke a ship from Liverpool going round Cape Horn. Some of the sailors had relatives on our ship, amongst the emigrants.
Friday, 16th October. Good sailing all day. Sour and rotten beef cooked for the emigrants. Eaten by some, and thrown overboard by others. Air very warm.
Saturday, 17th October. Steady dry weather. Sour and rotten beef served out again. None of the married people ate it. Received third allowance of ¾lb. soap. Every family get the same, even if only man and wife.
Sunday, 18th October. No service by the minister today.
Tuesday, 20th October. Weather the same. A ship seen today steering same course, close by the wind, 7-8 knots. At 8 p.m. passed the Island of Trinidad9. We were 4 to 5 miles distant on the port side. On the north coast of this island abundance of fish playing, also large amount of sea fowls.
Thursday, 22nd October. Strong winds. Going 8½ knots. Weather squally.
Sunday, 25th October. Fine morning. Divine Service on the poop. At 2 p.m. ship beat off course. By 6 p.m. stunsails, royals and topgallant sails taken in. By 8 p.m. ship double reefed. Head swell.
Monday, 26th October. Gale lasted till forenoon. Soon mostly all sail was hoisted. Heavy sea spread. Going 4½ to 5 knots. By order of the Doctor, we emigrant passengers had our watch-keeping done away with, Many complaining of sore throats from the cold. I had a touch of it myself, after heavy sweating, then going suddenly on deck with only a cotton shirt thrown open at the neck.
Here the diary stopped. It’s not known whether the remainder was lost or whether Thomas stopped keeping it, given that his last entry said he was not feeling well. It’s a shame he didn’t describe the rest of the journey across the Indian Ocean, although that may have had less interest than the trip down the west coast of Africa.
[TBC]- Millett, Janet, 1872. An Australian Parsonage or the Settler and the Savage in Western Australia.
- The hamlet where the Sinclairs lived
- Packet ships took mail and light cargo along the Shetland coast
- I cannot find this chapel, perhaps a transcription error?
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